Blog & News

Is it better to water your lawn in the morning or evening?

Look, I’m gonna be straight with you about this whole watering debate. After 20+ years watching Sydney lawns go from lush to crispy (and back again), I’ve got some pretty strong opinions on this. ## The Morning Wins. No Contest. Here’s the thing – watering in the morning is just **better**. Period. And I’m not saying that because some gardening textbook told me so. I’m saying it because I’ve seen what happens when people water at night, and mate… it’s not pretty. ## Why Morning Watering Actually Works So you drag yourself out of bed at 6am, coffee in one hand, hose in the other. Yeah it’s early. But here’s what’s happening: – Your grass gets a full day to dry out – The water actually gets down to the roots before the sun goes mental – You’re not creating a fungus paradise (more on that in a sec) – Your lawn uses that water throughout the day when it actually needs it Best time? Between **5am and 9am**. Earlier the better in summer. ## The Evening Watering Trap Look I get it. You come home from work, it’s still light out, perfect time to water right? Wrong. Evening watering is like leaving wet towels on your bathroom floor. Sure, seems harmless enough. But give it a few days and suddenly you’ve got problems. Big, smelly, fungus-y problems. When you water at night: – Grass stays wet for 10+ hours – Fungal diseases throw a party – Slugs and snails think you’ve opened a buffet – Half your water just sits there doing nothing ## What About Those 40-Degree Days? Okay okay, sometimes morning watering isn’t gonna happen. Life gets in the way. If you absolutely HAVE to water later, here’s the deal: **Second best option:** Late afternoon (like 4-6pm). Gives the grass some time to dry before dark. **Absolute worst time:** Middle of the day. You’re basically just watching water evaporate. Might as well throw money in the air. ## The Bottom Line for Sydney Lawns Here in Sydney, we cop some serious heat in summer. And our clay soils? They’re either rock hard or waterlogged – no in between. Morning watering helps you work with these conditions, not against them. Set your sprinklers for early morning. Your lawn (and your water bill) will thank you. Trust me on this one – I’ve seen enough brown patches and fungus outbreaks to know what I’m talking about. And hey, if you’re not keen on the whole 5am wake up call, that’s what automatic sprinkler systems are for. Or you know… give the team at Mr Lawn Man a shout. We’re already up anyway. ## Quick Morning Watering Checklist – **Water deep, not often** (2-3 times a week max) – **Check the weather** (no point watering before rain) – **Watch for runoff** (if water’s pooling, you’re overdoing it) – **Different areas need different amounts** (shady spots need way less) Seriously though – morning watering isn’t just some old wives tale. It’s

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How do I choose a lawn care company?

Look, I get it. choosing a lawn care company feels like it should be simple but then you start googling and suddenly there’s 47 different options and they all claim to be “the best”. Been there. So let me break this down for you the way I wish someone had done for me years ago. ## **Start With The Basics (But Don’t Stop There)** First things first – are they actually legit? I’m talking: – Do they have insurance? (trust me on this one) – Are they licensed if your area requires it? – Can they give you real references, not just their cousin Steve? But here’s the thing… every decent company checks these boxes. It’s like saying a restaurant has plates. Important? Yes. Enough to make a decision? Nope. ## **The Real Questions You Should Be Asking** Here’s what actually matters: **How do they handle communication?** If they take 3 days to return your initial call, guess how long they’ll take when there’s an actual problem. A good company gets back to you same day, maybe next morning at the latest. **Do they show up when they say they will?** Sounds basic but you’d be surprised. Ask them straight up – “what happens if you can’t make it?” The good ones have a system. They’ll text you, call you, whatever. They don’t just… not show up. **What’s their actual experience with YOUR type of lawn?** Not all grass is created equal. Buffalo grass isn’t couch grass isn’t kikuyu. If they can’t tell you specifically how they handle your lawn type, that’s a red flag. ## **The Price Thing (Let’s Be Real About It)** Cheapest isn’t best. Most expensive isn’t best either. Here’s my rule: get three quotes. Throw out the highest and lowest. The one in the middle? That’s probably your sweet spot. But also… – Ask what’s included. Some companies charge extra for edging. Others include it – Find out if they have regular service discounts – Check if they’ll match a competitor’s price (many will) ## **Red Flags That Should Make You Run** – They want full payment upfront for ongoing service – They can’t (or won’t) show you their insurance – Their equipment looks like it hasn’t been maintained since 1987 – They pressure you to sign a long contract immediately – Zero online presence or reviews (it’s 2024, come on) ## **The Secret Nobody Talks About** You know what really matters? Whether they actually care about your lawn or if they’re just trying to mow and go. The best lawn care people? They’ll stop and tell you “hey, noticed you’ve got some grubs starting over here” or “that section’s looking a bit dry, might want to adjust your sprinklers.” They’re not just cutting grass. They’re taking care of your property. ## **How To Actually Make The Decision** Okay so you’ve got your shortlist. Here’s what you do: 1. **Call them.** Not email. Call. See how they handle it 2. **Ask for a quote IN PERSON.**

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What are the most common lawn diseases?

Look, nobody wants to deal with a sick lawn. Trust me, I’ve seen enough brown patches and weird spots to last a lifetime. Here in Sydney, our lawns cop a beating from the weather – one day it’s scorching hot, the next we’re drowning in rain. Perfect recipe for lawn diseases if you ask me. ## **The Usual Suspects** Let me break down what’s probably attacking your grass right now. And yeah, I say probably because if you’re reading this, chances are you’ve already noticed something’s not quite right with your lawn. ### **Brown Patch (The Classic)** This one’s a real pain. You wake up one morning and boom – circular patches of brown, dead grass. Usually shows up when it’s humid and warm, which is basically half the year here. The patches start small, maybe the size of a dinner plate, but can spread to a couple meters wide if you ignore them. What to look for: – Circular or irregular brown patches – A dark “smoke ring” around the edges (especially in the morning) – Grass blades that pull out easy – too easy ### **Dollar Spot** Don’t let the name fool you. These spots might start dollar-sized but they’ll merge into bigger problems real quick. Love attacking lawns that are a bit stressed – maybe you’ve been forgetting to water, or the soil’s not quite right. You’ll know it when: – Small, round patches appear (about the size of a 50 cent coin) – The grass looks bleached or straw-colored – Morning dew shows white, cottony growth ### **Fairy Ring** Okay this one’s got a cute name but it’s annoying as hell. You get these dark green circles or arcs in your lawn. Sometimes mushrooms pop up too. The fungi that cause this actually help break down organic matter, but they also make your lawn look like a Target logo. Signs include: – Dark green rings or arcs – Dead grass inside or outside the rings – Mushrooms (sometimes) – Soil that repels water like it’s waterproof ## **The Sydney Specials** Now, living in Sydney brings its own set of problems. Our climate’s perfect for some diseases that other places don’t see as much. ### **Pythium Blight** This one loves our humid nights. Spreads faster than gossip at a BBQ. One day your lawn’s fine, three days later you’ve got slimy, matted patches everywhere. Watch out for: – Greasy, slimy patches – White, cottony growth in the morning – Grass that looks water-soaked – Patches that follow water drainage patterns ### **Spring Dead Spot** Guess when this shows up? Yep, spring. Your couch grass is coming back to life after winter and… surprise! Dead circles everywhere. Been dealing with this one a lot lately. What you’ll see: – Circular dead patches in spring – Patches that don’t recover as grass grows – Usually affects couch and buffalo grass – Same spots tend to return each year ## **Why Your Lawn Gets Sick** Look, lawns are like people.

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How can I make my lawn grow thicker?

Look, I get it. You stare out at your lawn and it’s… patchy. Thin. Like it’s given up on life halfway through. Been there. The good news? Making your lawn thicker isn’t rocket science. It’s more like… making a good pasta sauce. You need the right ingredients, some patience, and yeah, a bit of know-how. ## **First Things First – Why Is Your Lawn Thin?** Before we jump into solutions, let’s figure out what’s going on. Your lawn might be thin because: – **Wrong grass type** for Sydney’s climate (huge mistake people make) – **Compacted soil** – basically your lawn can’t breathe – **Not enough nutrients** – grass gets hungry too – **Too much shade** or **too much sun** – You’re cutting it too short (guilty as charged, right?) ## **The Game Plan for a Thicker Lawn** ### **1. Pick the Right Grass** This is where most people mess up. In Sydney, you want something that can handle our weather. Buffalo grass? Brilliant choice. Couch grass? Also solid. Kikuyu? Fast-growing but can be a bit… aggressive. Don’t know what you’ve got? Grab a handful and really look at it. Or better yet, ask someone who knows lawns. ### **2. Feed Your Lawn (But Don’t Go Crazy)** Your grass needs food. But here’s the thing – too much fertilizer is worse than not enough. I’ve seen lawns literally burn from overeager feeding. **Spring and early summer** – that’s your sweet spot for fertilizing. Use a slow-release fertilizer. Think of it like a time-release vitamin for your lawn. ### **3. Water Smart, Not Hard** Deep, infrequent watering beats daily sprinkles every time. Why? Because it forces roots to grow deeper, searching for water. Deeper roots = thicker lawn. **Morning watering** is best. Evening watering? That’s asking for fungal problems. ### **4. Aerate (Your Lawn Needs to Breathe)** Compacted soil is like trying to grow plants in concrete. Not happening. You can rent an aerator, use a garden fork, or even those spike shoes (though honestly, the shoes are more gimmick than solution). Do this in spring when your grass is actively growing. ### **5. Overseed the Thin Spots** Here’s a secret – even the best lawns need touch-ups. **Best time to overseed in Sydney?** Autumn or spring. Spread seed on the thin areas, keep it moist (not soaked), and be patient. New grass takes time. ### **6. Mow High, Mow Often** Stop scalping your lawn! Cutting too short stresses the grass and actually makes it thinner. **The rule:** Never cut more than 1/3 of the grass height at once. And keep those mower blades sharp – dull blades tear grass instead of cutting it clean. ## **The Bottom Line** A thick lawn doesn’t happen overnight. It’s like getting in shape – consistency beats intensity every time. Start with one thing. Maybe it’s adjusting your watering schedule. Or raising your mower height. Small changes, big results over time. And look, if it all feels overwhelming, that’s what professionals are for. Sometimes the best

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How often should I mow my lawn?

Look, I get it. You’re staring out at your lawn right now wondering if it needs another cut. Maybe the neighbors just mowed and now yours looks a bit shabby in comparison? Been there. Here’s the thing – there’s no magic number that works for everyone. I know, I know… not the answer you wanted. But stick with me here. In Sydney (where it’s pretty much perfect growing weather half the year) most people are looking at mowing once a week during spring and summer. That’s when your grass is basically on steroids. Growing like crazy, especially if we’ve had some decent rain. But here’s what really matters – the one-third rule. Never cut more than a third of your grass height in one go. So if your grass is 9cm tall, don’t cut it shorter than 6cm. Why? Because grass is like that friend who needs time to process big changes. Shock it too much and it gets stressed, turns brown, and suddenly you’re dealing with bare patches where weeds move in like unwanted houseguests. Different grass types have different personalities too. Your classic buffalo grass? Pretty chill, doesn’t mind being cut to about 30-50mm. Couch grass is the low-maintenance type – happy at 15-25mm. And if you’ve got kikuyu, that stuff grows like it’s got somewhere important to be. You’ll be mowing more often with that one. Winter’s a different story. Your lawn basically goes into hibernation mode. Once every 3-4 weeks is usually plenty, sometimes even less. Unless you’re in one of those weird Sydney microclimates where it never really gets cold. Here’s my honest take – forget the calendar. Use your eyes. When your grass looks like it needs a haircut, it probably does. When you start losing golf balls in it, you’ve definitely waited too long. And hey, if you’re the type who’d rather spend your Saturdays at the beach instead of behind a mower (no judgment here), that’s what the pros are for. Regular maintenance keeps your lawn happy and your weekends free. The bottom line? A well-mowed lawn is like a good haircut – do it regularly and it always looks sharp. Leave it too long and you’ll spend ages trying to get it back in shape. Trust me on this one. Your grass will tell you what it needs if you pay attention. And if it could talk, it would probably say “little and often, mate. Little and often.”

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What is the best time to start lawn care in spring?

Look, I get it. Spring’s creeping in and your lawn’s looking… well, let’s just say it’s seen better days. You’re staring out the window wondering if it’s too early to start or if you’ve already missed the boat. Here’s the thing – timing your spring lawn care is kinda like catching the perfect wave. Too early and you’ll wipe out. Too late and you’ll miss it completely. In Sydney, we’re looking at that sweet spot between late August and early September. But honestly? Your lawn will tell you when it’s ready. When you start seeing those little green shoots pushing through the brown stuff, that’s nature’s way of saying “game on.” The biggest mistake I see people make? Getting too eager. Trust me, I’ve been there. One warm day in July and suddenly you’re out there with the mower thinking you’re getting a head start. Don’t do it. Your grass is still sleeping, and waking it up too early is like… well, like waking anyone up too early. Nobody’s happy. Here’s what you actually want to watch for: The soil temp needs to hit about 10-12 degrees consistently. Not just on that one random warm day, but like, for a week straight. You can get fancy with a soil thermometer, or just wait til you see your neighbors starting to get busy. There’s wisdom in the crowd, you know? Once you hit that magic moment, it’s go time. First things first – clean up all that winter junk. Sticks, leaves, whatever the dog buried and forgot about. Your lawn needs to breathe. Then comes the fun part (okay, maybe not fun, but satisfying). Give it that first gentle mow. And I mean GENTLE. Don’t scalp it thinking you’re doing it a favor. Set your mower high – we’re talking just a trim off the top. Think of it as a spring haircut, not a buzz cut. After that? Feed the beast. Your lawn’s been on a diet all winter and it’s hungry. A good quality fertilizer now sets you up for the whole season. It’s like breakfast – skip it and you’ll be playing catch-up all day. Or in this case, all spring and summer. Here’s something people don’t tell you enough – timing isn’t just about the calendar. Every yard’s different. That shady spot under your big tree? It’ll wake up later than the sunny patch by the driveway. Work with what you’ve got, not against it. And if you’re reading this in October thinking you’ve totally blown it? Relax. Lawns are forgiving. They’re tougher than we give them credit for. Sure, starting on time makes life easier, but starting late is way better than not starting at all. The real secret? Consistency beats perfection every time. Once you start, keep at it. Regular mowing, steady watering, occasional feeding. It’s not rocket science, but it does take showing up. So when’s the best time to start? When your lawn tells you it’s ready and you’ve got the time to

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